Lippy On

Occasional reflections on fashion and life

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Into the Red and back to Black!

It's been a very long time between posts! More than two years in fact, but at first glance not a great deal seems to have changed in the fashion world here in desperately parched Melbourne, Australia. Black is still very much in fashion. Sadly, black is also the predominant colour in large areas of our Garden State of Victoria, with the hottest day on record (46.3 c on 7th February 2009), Black Saturday, also resulting in the State's worst ever bushfires. More than 200 people have died in the fires, thousands are now homeless, countless livestock, native animals and birds have perished, and still there's no prospect of rain or an end to the drought. Combined with the Global Financial Crisis, it's no wonder that our mood here is sombre.

Which is perhaps all the more reason to reflect on happier times and the good things in life. Fashion is such a multi-faceted phenomenon - the pursuit of fashion may seem frivolous, but it's the means of survival for those who design, manufacture and sell clothing. The recent decision of Pacific Brands to lay off 1850 staff and relocate their manufacturing capacity offshore highlights the problems faced by the textile, clothing and foorwear industry here in Australia. The cost structure of the industry makes it difficult to compete with low-wage countries, so our favourite brands such as Bonds are now likely to be Australian in name only. Cottontails (huge, frumpy, cotton women's knickers) just won't be the same anymore!

On a brighter note, in recent times I visited two wonderful fashion exhibitions at the Bendigo Regional Art Gallery. Last year they had an interesting exhibition of Fashion in the Age of Queen Victoria. Many of the garments came from a collection by an Amish woman, who loved clothes but was not permitted to indulge this passion in her everyday life, so her collection remained private and in (relatively) good condition. There were some beautiful examples of hand-made dresses, from simple everyday frocks, to evening, wedding, maternity, and mourning wear. Interestingly, black was then generally only used for mourning wear, which was worn for up to 12 months (deep mourning) after which less sombre clothing was permitted. I had a lovely time exploring this exhibition, travelling to Bendigo and back by train - a relaxing and recommended way to travel.

More recently, we visited Bendigo gallery again to see the Golden Age of Couture exhibition, (open till 22 March 2009) which celebrates the decade from 1947 - 1957, when Christian Dior introduced his New Look to postwar Europe. It is a splendid exhibition from the V & A collection, with wonderful photographic and video displays accomanying the gowns. The catalogue provides interesting commentary, insights and beautiful images of the times. The changing silhouette of the female form, with nipped-in waists and fuller skirts is reminiscent of Edwardian fashions, and interestingly, there is not a female trouser anywhere to be seen in the exhibition - but of course this was haute couture at its very best. French fashion in the fifties was a major source of employment and export income - Dior alone was thought to generate 5% of revenue at this time. The growth in ready-to-wear couture, the mini skirt revolution of the sixties, the denim jeans of the seventies, and the power-dressing shoulder pads of the eighties were all yet to come!